Catamount – Climb Gneiss

Access Status: YELLOW

Catamount is a small out-of-the-way area and is by no means a destination cliff. However, it does offer some great climbing for locals looking to beat the crowds or curious out-of-towners who want to try out a new spot. This crag was originally discovered in the 90s but saw little development until a resurgence during Covid. The schist is on the sharper side but is generally pretty solid. The condensed nature of the climbing and that the main area has a great “hang” spot make this an ideal crag for small groups who want to spend the day climbing near each other. While the grades range from 5.8 to 5.13, the heaviest concentration falls in the 5.11+ to mid-5.12 range. Someone projecting at this level can stay occupied over several visits to the cliff.

The cliff faces southeast and receives spotty sun throughout the morning. Abundant trees offer lots of shade to many of the routes all day, making for tolerable summer conditions. There is variable seasonal seepage on a few routes on the main wall between Tiger King and Neu Normal. This can be hit or miss but it is a good bet to assume Virtue of Selfishness and Delta Queen will be wet until around June. Fall is by far the best time to visit the cliff.

Parking & Trails

Parking is located .5 miles from route 2 up North River Road there are two pullouts, one on each side of the road, with room for 10-12 vehicles. Google maps pin for parking. From the smaller pullout on the west side of the road, follow the trail a few feet and cross the stream to a foot path (orange flagging). The foot path will give way to an old logging road. Continue uphill eventually crossing under the power lines. Continue on the logging road passing more flagging and a no trespassing sign. Several hundred yards past the no trespassing sign turn left at a tree with a double band of flagging tape. From here, the well flagged trail contours with the hill side and over the tops of several small crags eventually dropping down a short gully to the main sector. Total hike is approximately .75 miles and takes 20-30 minutes.

Guidebook

There is a GunksApp guidebook: Catamount Routes written by Sara McFadden. You can download it for $2.99, and 10% of the profits go to the WMCC.

Access Status: Yellow

This area is in the yellow category, meaning there is no formal agreement to protect access to climbing at this cliff at this time. Please be respectful and stay on marked trails and routes listed in the guidebook to ensure you aren’t entering private property.