Roadside – Climb Gneiss

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The Roadside Crag is located in Montague, MA one mile from the entrance to Wendell State Forest and three quarters of a mile from Mormon Hollow. This tiny cliff offers surprisingly pumpy but mostly moderate bouldering with a one minute approach.

This northeast facing hunk of dusty but solid granitic gneiss is marked by a wealth of juggy horizontals and sees mostly shade. According to Western Mass legend, the first few body lengths of this 100 foot long by 35 foot tall craglett was hand excavated by a local llama farmer turned climber. The bouldering includes a V11, a V7, a V6, a V4 and several moderate eliminates. Additionally, Roadside features three bolted lines rated 5.10 or easier.

Parking

A small parking area is located on the south side of Wendell Road a few hundred yards southeast of the Wendell Road/Mormon Hollow Road fork. Take South Prospect Street for about a mile as it climbs out of Millers Falls and bear right at the aforementioned fork onto Wendell Road. An obvious, shallow driveway and the crag will quickly appear on the right as the road climbs again and breaks left. Pull in and park sensibly.